Little Running Deer on July 9th, 2014

Salsa-Produce

 

Grow the most food with the least amount of work and money with these 30 tips

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1. Grow high-value crops. “Value” is subjective, but growing the food that costs the most to buy makes sense, provided it is suited to your climate. Value can also be about flavor, which means making space for your favorite veggie and herb varieties first.

2. Start early and end late. Use cloches, cold frames, tunnels and other season-stretching devices to move your spring season up by a month or more. In fall, use them to protect crops from frost and deer while extending the season for cold-tolerant greens and root crops. (The time to plan the fall garden is now. Read how in “Fall Gardening Plan.”)

3. Emphasize what grows well for you. Crops that are easy to grow in one climate may be challenges in others, so repeat successes. When you find vegetables that excel in your garden, growing as many of them as you can use will move you a step closer to food self-sufficiency. And don’t overlook your gardening neighbors’ wisdom.

4. Conversely, don’t grow more of something than you could possibly use. Last year, some novice gardening friends told me they’d planted 50 tomato and pepper plants. At my house, 14 tomato plants and 10 peppers supply two of us with a year’s worth of canned, dried and frozen goodies. Growing more would be a waste of resources.

5. Plant perennials. Plants that return year after year save planting time, and maintenance is usually limited to annual weeding, feeding and mulching. Asparagus and rhubarb thrive where winters are cold, sorrel is a terrific perennial salad green, Jerusalem artichokes and horseradish grow almost anywhere, and in climates with mild winters, bunching onions or bamboo shoots grow as perennial crops.

6. Choose high-yielding varieties. Few things are more disappointing than nurturing a tomato plant for three months to harvest only three fruits from it. Don’t let this happen to you! Network with local gardeners to find varieties known to grow well in your area.

 

http://www.motherearthliving.com/vegetable-gardening/garden-harvest-zmgz12jazmel.aspx?PageId=2#ArticleContent

 

 

 

Fresh Garden Herbs

 

 

shared Mother Earth News Magazine‘s photo.

Salads That Grow in Winter

Corn salads — also known as “mâches” — are quite cold-hardy and grow best during fall and winter. Two features of golden corn salad that elevate it above the common mâche now sold in many supermarkets are its nutty flavor and its ornamental possibilities for edible landscaping. Here’s how to grow this winter-salad-waiting-to-happen, plus an easy recipe for Golden Corn Salad With Vinaigrette Dressing:

 

http://www.motherearthnews.com/organic-gardening/kitchen-garden.aspx

 

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Outside Agitators Not Buddhists or Muslims Behind Mandalay Attacks

This is a "found" artwork. It's basically old toilet block covered in graffiti.According to sources within Mandalay the violence against Muslims and Buddhists are being committed by one source. Locals believe the agitators are government stooges trying to start another false flag disturbance like they did in Rakhine State with the Rohingya and Buddhist communities. One source said, “Where did these people come from since they are not from Mandalay?”

Many people speculate that this disturbance was designed to distract potential voters away from Daw Aung San Suu Kyi and the NLD as they push for the 2015 elections. History reveals that this is an age old tactic General Than Shwe used to keep the nation in a state of turmoil so he and his thugs could rob this impoverished nation blind. In reality nothing has changed for the democracy Burma is experiencing is nothing more than Kabuki Theater, an act and bold faced lie for the western press. The fact journalists are being arrested should be an indicator that democracy is just a facade.

I still question why U Win Tin died, knowing there are many ways to cause death from dialysis that resemble ‘natural causes’. I think he was assassinated quietly because he posed a real threat to the status quo. My friend Sitt and I watched as one by one, every one of his friends died mysteriously in Burma and they were all pro democracy activists. There is no question Sitt would be dead by now from some natural cause if he were still in Burma.

Eye witnesses observed fabricated events strictly for the western press and other shady dealings that proved these events are simply staged. The collateral deaths of bystanders in this scam to divide the Muslim and Buddhist communities is considered a blessing to these thugs the Junta sent out to terrorize this once peaceful city. Witnesses also identified that these so called Buddhist & Muslims came into the community dressed in civilian cloths but more resembled soldiers out of uniform, all of them.

The Sham Buddhists came in chanting as if they were legitimate Buddhists but they did not have family or friends in Mandalay, neither did the Bogus Muslims. They stuck with themselves rather than mingle with family since obviously they had none. Mandalay residence did not recognize them and they did not share common ethnically cultural features or colloquialisms of the local Buddhist OR Muslim communities they claimed to come from. They literally came out of no where and started violence in both communities on the very same day. It was planned like clock work.

They are not Buddhists or Muslims, they are Junta stooges on a mission from the Tatmadaw to instigate violence between these religious groups. I personally have visited both the Muslim and Buddhist communities and celebrated with them. I clearly remember Buddhist coming to honor the Muslims on their sacred days as well as Muslims visiting Buddhists on their sacred days. They had mutual respect for one another and enjoyed these sacred days in harmony, food and celebration. It is a lie to think for one moment that Buddhists or Muslims within Burma would intentionally kill one another now since they lived in harmony for as long as older residence can remember. Surely there was peace before colonization, hmmmmm.

False flag events are the wave of the future as corrupt politicians around the world use this very same tactic to influence their electorates. Than Shwe used this tactic to hide the genocide in Kachin, Shan and Karen States from the media’s eyes. Burning down a Buddhist temple while casting blame on Christians or Muslims was and apparently still is the way of the Burmese government. Than Shwe once bragged to one of his blabbermouth generals that every ethnic and religious group including NGO’s in Burma are infiltrated with his spies, snitches and operatives. This is a classic example of how Than Shwe ruled Burma, through chaos and lies and nothing has changed according to locals.

With new Chinese trade deals in the works there is no question Mandalay will soon be the target of land grabs as well as Asian and western sweatshops. The influence of major corporations and their deep pockets has negatively influenced Burma’s politics ever since the UK had Aung San assassinated for trying to unite Burma. After all, a united Burma would rather utilize their natural resources to benefit their people and to advance their cultures. The Panglong Agreement would have provided the seed of unity this nation needed whence it was free from British colonial bondage. Burma had all the makings of a great nation that could have equaled Hong Kong, Japan or other advanced Asian nation for that matter, not plunged into poverty writhe with secular violence.

One thing we do know for sure is the fact General Than Shwe and his inner circle are Bilderberg Stooges like Thailand’s fugitive ex prime minister Thaksin Shinawatra, a crony of Uncle Than. Or was it just a coincidence that all the international corporations who continued to do business with Burma where exempt from the mandated sanctions imposed by the UN (Useless Nimrods). Even Ban K-moon’s vested corporate interests did business with the Sanctioned Burmese Junta. When it comes down to it, only Bilderberg Stooge Corporations did business with Burma during the sanctions period. Daw Aung San Suu Kyi was only allowed to visit with Bilderberg Stooges while she was still under house arrest.

With all this in mind it is hard not to suspect that there are outside forces assisting the Burmese Junta in keeping this resource rich nation in a determinant state of chaos like oil rich nations in the mid-east. It is curious that the mainstream media only addresses the Rohingya turmoil while totally ignoring the atrocities being committed in Kachinland. Oh silly me, Kachinland is chock full of natural resources including gold, uranium and rare earth minerals global corporations desperately desire. Its just a coincidence that the parent companies of the western media are owned by the very criminals who want to strip Asia of its natural resources like they are doing in Africa and South America. Dare I mention the fracking chaos in Europe and North America? Same douche bags, same 1%…………..

It may be to simplistic to say it’s just the Burmese government who is behind this Buddhist – Muslim bloodletting. These events fall in line with the violence, corruption and land grabs that are infecting nations around the world and it all points directly to the Bilderberg Group and their shill organizations & corporations. Generalissimo Than Shwe and his flunky Thura U Shwe Mann are not clever enough to come up with such an international scheme. They are only stooges of the corporate like their fetid inner circle. The real rulers of Burma residing in Brussels and 10 Downing Street. The ruling class of Burma are only following orders from global thieves. They are also guilty of high treason against the people of Burma and false flag events are their weapons of choice.

Your Devil’s Advocate

Buffalohair

© 2014, Buffalohair Productions. All rights reserved.

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Little Running Deer on June 29th, 2014

shared Mother Earth Living‘s photo.

Use this crop-by-crop guide and learn the best ways to harvest your produce for the tastiest food and most productive plants ever.

 

http://www.motherearthliving.com/gardening/gardening-tips/how-and-when-to-harvest-zmgz14jazpit.aspx

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Beans: Check daily—vital, as beans grow quickly; pick snap/green beans when pods are full and firm with pliable tips but seeds are tiny, usually two to four weeks after bloom; pick haricot (French filet) types when tender, young pods are about 1/8 inch.

Beets: Pick standard varieties when roots are 1-1/2 to 3 inches in diameter and about the size of a golf ball; white and golden varieties stay tender until they’re the size of a baseball; storage (winter-keeping) varieties remain tender until softball-size; beets harvested past their prime have a strong taste and tough texture.

Broccoli: Harvest when buds are tight and before florets begin opening flowers; for your first harvest, cut the central stalk at a slant 5 to 6 inches below the base of the head, which prevents rot and encourages production of new side shoots.

Cabbage: Begin harvesting anytime after heads become solid and firm; larger heads are more likely to split—split heads are still tasty but won’t store well.

Cantaloupes: Harvest when the “netting” that overlays skin becomes more pronounced and the melon separates easily from the vine.

Carrots: Harvest over a long period of time, beginning when roots are deeply colored and 1⁄2 to 1 inch in diameter and continuing until ground freezes; carefully dig carrots, don’t pull them from the ground unless they come up easily; both younger and older carrots have their virtues—texture is best in young carrots, while sugars increase in older carrots.

Cauliflower: Best when heads are 6 to 8 inches and firm with solid curds; heads are lower in quality after curds open (they resemble rice grains).

Corn: When silks begin to dry and brown, around 20 days after silk first appears, peel back husk and pierce a kernel with your thumbnail—if milky juice comes out, the corn is ready; snap off ears by pulling downward, then twisting.

Cucumbers: Check daily; to use fresh, pick cucumbers that are juicy and 6 to 9 inches long; for sweet pickles, harvest cucumbers 1-1/2 to 2-1/2 inches long; for dill pickles, ideal length is 3 to 4 inches.

Eggplant: Overripe eggplant is bitter; harvest young fruit when it’s firm and 4 to 8 inches long; use scissors or shears to cut stems at an angle (pulling injures it).

 

Honeydew-type melons: Pick when melons soften and give slightly to pressure on blossom end and tendril closest to the fruit turns brown; cut from vine.

Leeks: Pull from the ground anytime after stem is at least 1 inch in diameter; harvest small for the most delicate flavor; cut off roots and most of the top green portion before refrigerating (use green part in soup stock); many varieties overwinter in mild climates and remain harvestable into March.

Lettuce (butterheads, romaines and crispheads): Harvest when head begins to form, but before center begins to elongate, which means the plant is preparing to flower and will become bitter.

Lettuce (loose-leaf): Most lettuces can be picked when leaves are tiny or larger; pick outer leaves as needed.

Okra: Always pick young; harvest short-pod varieties at 2 to 3 inches long and long-pod types at 6 to 8 inches long; tips of tender pods will snap, but those on older pods won’t because the tip turns fibrous—check pods daily as they can go from prime to pitiful in 24 hours.

Onions: Harvest in two stages: as green scallions and as bulbs; green onions are best when tops are 6 to 8 inches tall and stems are pencil-thick; for maximum bulb size, wait until more than half the tops have fallen, then push over the remaining tops; a week later, harvest bulbs and set them in the sun for a day or two (cover at night); cure following the instructions in “How to Cure” later in this article.

Peas (garden and shell): Harvest and shell when pods are bright and fully filled; peas should be sweet, plump and tender.

Peas (snap and snow): Harvest in early morning or early evening when plump and well-colored but not as fully filled as garden peas; pick before pods fill out, while still young, tender and thin.

Peppers: Harvest anytime in the immature green stage—the more you pick, the more the plant will produce; for a fully flavored sweet pepper, wait until it changes to its mature color (hot peppers also usually take on more flavor when their color changes).

Potatoes: Potato tops die down about two weeks before they’re ready to harvest; dig at any time after or leave them in the ground longer—dig them before frost or rain sets in; dig tubers with a spading fork and allow to dry for a few hours in the sun, then cure and store following the instructions in “How to Cure” later in this article.

Summer squash (straightneck and crookneck zucchini): Don’t let squash get too big or the plant’s production will falter; harvest while skins are tender and fruits are 4 to 8 inches long.

Summer Squash (patty pan varieties): Harvest small, when fruits are 3 inches in diameter or smaller.

Tomatoes: Pick between semifirm and semisoft stages, when fruits are fully colored (whether red, orange, pink, purple or white); if temperatures are too hot or frost threatens, pick fruits a few days early and ripen indoors; tomatoes are best stored at temperatures higher than 50 degrees—never in the refrigerator.

 

Brussels sprouts, kale and winter squash all taste best after they’ve seen a couple of frosts. Get them in the ground now, and they’ll be ready for harvest at Halloween, Thanksgiving and beyond.

Brussels sprouts: Sprouts sweeten after going through a couple of frosts; buds at the base mature first so pick from the bottom up; sprouts should be firm and 1 inch in diameter; to encourage larger sprouts, cut plant top back by about 4 inches four weeks before you’ll begin harvesting.

Kale: Harvest about 40 days after planting and after a frost, which sweetens the flavor; pinch off outer leaves as needed.

Winter squash: Fully ripe fruit’s skin should resist puncture from your thumbnail and have a hard stem and deepened skin color (spaghetti squash turns mellow golden yellow; butternut deepens to a subtle orange-tan; and a splotch of orange-yellow often appears on the underside of acorn, delicata and buttercup types); harvest after the first light frost but before a hard frost; never handle squash by the stem (fruits rot after the stem breaks); cut—don’t pull—squash from the vine, and leave 2 inches of the stem attached; wipe off any dirt but don’t get the fruits wet; cure and store following instructions in “How to Cure” later in this article.

 

How to Cure

Onions, potatoes and winter squash are crops that store well all winter when properly cured—which means they are left to sit in a dry, warm and sheltered area for a week or two before storing. Good locations for curing might be a box in a dry basement or garage, or simply covered on a dry porch. Use the following advice for curing these pantry must-haves.

Onions: After harvesting bulbs, set them in the sun for a day or two (cover at night). Next, cure bulbs with tops intact for about a week in a sheltered, dry area; during this time, the outer layers form a dry skin. After that, cut tops about an inch above the bulbs, trim off roots and store onions in a well-ventilated, dry, cool (ideal is 35 to 40 degrees) and dark location for up to a year.

Potatoes: After digging potatoes, allow them to dry for a few hours in the sun, then cure them for about two weeks at 50 to 60 degrees under shelter in a well-ventilated, high-humidity area. After they are cured, potatoes store best at 35 to 40 degrees, but keep well for several months even at 50 degrees.

Winter squash: Cure fruits in a warm place (80 to 85 degrees is ideal) for a couple of weeks. Once cured, store in a cool, dry location at 50 to 55 degrees for up to four months.

 

 

 

 

 

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